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Ann Sather, the historic Swedish restaurant in Chicago best known for its beloved cinnamon rolls, just opened a new flagship on the border between East Village and Wicker Park on Friday, July 24
Owner, operator and former Ald. Tom Tunney had closed the last Belmont Avenue location after 81 years in Lakeview on June 28
“Right before COVID, I got an offer to sell everything that I had on Belmont, which I did,” said Tunney. “They’re redeveloping the property.”
He sold for $10 million, a spokesperson told the Tribune in 2019
“I didn’t need to worry about working anymore,” said Tunney recently. “But I decided for the brand and the employees and the attractiveness of this particular location on Division that this would be a really good retrofit of the Belmont atmosphere.”
That atmosphere starts with the bakery case full of cinnamon rolls
“Right as you walk in,” said the restaurateur. “Just like Belmont.”
They’re gooey, he added, and the frosting is unique
“It’s not sour cream frosting,” said Tunney. “And they’re loaded with brown sugar and cinnamon.”
The Tribune published a recipe for Ann Sather’s cinnamon rolls in 2004, including the powdered sugar icing that uses a touch of milk
Ann Sather, the legendary woman, originally bought what was called the Swedish Diner in 1945. She moved it a few doors down and changed the name to Ann Sather’s in 1955. Tunney worked with her and then took over the business at 925 W. Belmont in 1980. When the lease ended, he purchased the adjacent building at 929 W. Belmont in 1984
“It was a funeral home,” Tunney said. “My older clientele was a little uncomfortable.”
So he kept both restaurants open for about nine months, until August 1985. The new space was open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with alcohol
“I became alderman in 2003,” said Tunney. “One of the sacrifices of being alderman is that Illinois law did not allow elected officials to own liquor licenses.”
That prompted him to cut to breakfast and lunch only in 2004. He moved again to 909 W. Belmont, after Panera bought the former funeral home building in 2007. And now the popular Swedish pancakes with Swedish meatballs have made the move to East Village/Wicker Park
“We do bang-up breakfast omelets and burritos too,” said Tunney. “And people really talk about our fresh turkey.”
That’s served in hot turkey sandwiches and a classic turkey club
“People have been coming for generations,” he said. “They’re very disappointed about Belmont, but they understand.”
They’ll find familiar fixtures on Division Street, and not just tables and chairs
“I took everything out of Belmont,” said Tunney. “The chandeliers, those are over 100 years old, they were actually from the old funeral home.”
There’s also the Norwegian folk art, including individually stenciled ceiling tiles. The late Ann Sather was Norwegian American. Her portrait hangs near the new bakery case. The space was last a Yolk breakfast restaurant. There are also two other Ann Sather locations, one in Edgewater and another in Lakeview
“And 90% of our staff is coming from Belmont,” including manager Clara Smith, Tunney said. “She’s been our cashier since the ’80s.”
The longest-employed cook, Carlos Calzada, will be in the kitchen
“He’s been here probably 44 years,” said Tunney, who also cooks. “I have a number of chefs, and I tend to be in the middle of all the chaos on the weekends.”
The new Ann Sather is still first come, first served. Reservations are available for parties of six or more. The dining room seats 140 inside. The sidewalk patio out front will eventually seat another 35 or 40 outdoors, but not until later this summer. Hours are daily 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., 365 days a year, including holidays
“Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day, we’re really busy,” said Tunney. “People like our turkey, mashed potatoes and cranberries, just like grandma used to make.”
BYOB is permitted. The restaurant is not serving alcohol at this point. There are nonalcoholic beverages
“Our favorite is a blend of orange, strawberry and banana,” said Tunney. “And a lot of people like the Swedish coffee with nutmeg, allspice and whipped cream.”
Some of the “young kids” came up with the hot and sweet drink about five years ago
“But it’s a little too foo foo for me.”
1819 W. Division St., 773-348-2378, annsather.com
More new openings, in alphabetical order:
Doughboy’s: The home of the world-famous Spagedough has moved. Doughboy’s just reopened in the Woodlawn neighborhood on July 1. Chris “Doughboy” Fryison is serving up his signature saucy spaghetti with turkey, and a vegetarian variation called Veggidough, along with wings and catfish
501 E. 61st St., 773-571-9426, doughboyschicago.com
Drama Club:Scofflaw, the gin-focused bar in Logan Square, has a new sister focused on agave. Drama Club began pouring in Humboldt Park on July 9. Behind the orange velvet curtains you’ll find $12 cocktails plus a $6 Baby Marg and nonalcoholic drinks including the Self Care mixed with Ritual zero proof agave spirit alternative
819 N. California Ave., dramaclubbar.com
Gilda: A trio of chefs has just opened a Basque cuisine-inspired restaurant named for a classic pinxto. Gilda debuted in West Town on July 20. Chefs Jeremy Leven, Rafael Esparza and Anthony Baier are indeed making the namesake snack on a stick with pickled piparra pepper, anchovy and olive, plus seasonal Basque cheesecake and much more to pair with drinks by beverage and culture director Inés de Haro
1421 W. Chicago Ave., gildarestaurant.com
In closing news:
Beatrix: The mini chain of neighborhood-style restaurant meets coffeehouse meets market by Lettuce Entertain You closed the Fulton Market location on July 15
Washington Hall: The food hall formerly known as Urbanspace closed permanently in the Loop on June 27
In reopening news:
Magnolia Bakery:The chain, founded in New York City and best known for banana pudding, reopened its Loop location on July 21. That Chicago location had closed after city health inspectors found high-risk infestations
108 N. State St., 312-346-7777, magnoliabakery.com
Do you have notable restaurant news in the Chicago area? Email restaurant critic Louisa Kung Liu Chu at lchu@chicagotribune.com
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