By
- Pamela Silvestri | silvestri@siadvance.com
N.Y. — It’s been a bummer of a week between Richie Holmes’ passing and the closure of East Pacific, among other restaurant shutteringsso far this year
But I have some good news in the restaurant department, and I’m happy to share it
Little Kitchen, a new restaurant in the former Red Apple space in Dongan Hills, opened about three weeks ago at 1724 Hylan Blvd. with an ambitious goal: bringing Staten Islanders a different level of Chinese dining. Based on the tastings we had there last week, owner Jason He is well on his way
The proprietor said, “Enjoy not only just the food—enjoy the vibes here. Everything.”
On Wednesday, just before our Facebook Live at the place, I queued up at 11 a.m. with other people from the neighborhood who were also waiting for the restaurant to open
Why Dongan Hills?
Why not settle on New Dorp Lane, which has evolved into something of a Chinatown of its own?
He said he wants to reach far beyond the Chinese community
“I’m not satisfied with that. You know why? Because we’re ready for the American market,” He said. “The Asian community is only 5% of the market. We’re ready for the other 95%. That’s what we’re doing right now.”
For He, that’s just the beginning
He has lived in the United States since he was about 12 years old and is preparing to move to Bulls Head. As he gets ready to become a Staten Island homeowner, he said he wanted to invest in the borough by creating the kind of Chinese restaurant he believes has been missing from the local dining scene
His vision extends beyond the food
“You need a place like this — a sit-down, quiet family-talk place,” he said
A background steeped in hospitality
He brings more than a decade of restaurant experience to the venture, including management positions in Manhattan. During our visit, he spoke proudly of past restaurants where he worked that earned recognition from The New York Times and the Michelin Guide
The menu reflects that ambition. Little Kitchen offers dishes from several regions of China, including Shanghai, Sichuan and Chongqing, while keeping the menu accessible to newcomers with descriptions in both Mandarin and English
Among the highlights were pumpkin dumplings coated in salted egg yolk, fried bits of chicken thighs tossed with scallion and copious dried chiles, delicate soup dumplings and a silky crabmeat tofu soup
The biggest surprise, however, was a cast-iron pot of mushroom rice
“We created this rice for vegetarians,” He said. “There’s no meat in there.”
Had the waiter, Toby, not told me, I never would have guessed. The rice arrived with a lightly crisped bottom, toothsome grains and snow peas plus deep, savory flavor from mushrooms. It was one of the most memorable dishes on the table
“It’s not easy to open a restaurant and keep everything fresh like that,” He said
That philosophy extends to the beverage menu. A traditional Beijing-style plum drink is made in-house from dried plums and hibiscus flowers and takes about three hours to prepare. Richly flavored and slightly smoky, the refreshing beverage delivered layers of sweet, tart and earthy notes
What was so freaking delicious? A mound of crispy pork — some pieces still on the bone, for better or worse — bathed in a tangy tomato-based sauce that evoked freshly made ketchup. Little Kitchen’s own pickles — tiny whole cucumbers with a date and separate dish of petite radishes — cleansed the palate
Let’s talk dumplings
Other great bites included crab and pork soup dumplings and a pork-and-scallion dumpling that looked like a tiny canoe. Crisp and caramelized on the bottom, it had delicate peaks of dough that reminded of a nurse’s hat. Handmade and beautifully detailed, it delivered the comfort of a wonton with the chew and structure of a pot sticker — only much lighter
I loved the sticky rice — watch out, Bobby Flay — with its crunch and crackle from the ceramic pot in which it came sizzling to the table. Comforting, earthy and deeply flavorful, it proved that a meatless dish can still steal the show
And then there were the desserts
A coconut panna cotta layered over coconut gelatin arrived in beautiful two-tone fashion, topped with snowy curls of coconut. Another dessert, made from tea and gelatin and finished with finely diced chrysanthemum blossoms, contained no added sugar. Still, a delicate oolong flavor threaded through every spoonful. It was elegant, restrained and unlike anything I’ve tasted recently on Staten Island
He considers Little Kitchen’s first few weeks a soft opening, with a grand-opening celebration expected later this summer
Judging by the crowds already finding the restaurant, he’s off to a promising start
And after writing obituaries for both people and restaurants over the last few weeks, I’m glad to finally be writing about a beginning instead of an ending
For those curious to see what the buzz is about, Little Kitchen is located at 1724 Hylan Blvd. in Dongan Hills. Diners can reach the restaurant at 347-825-2011 or follow @littlekitchen_statenisland on Instagram. The restaurant is currently open daily at 11 a.m. and closes at 10 p.m., with extended hours on Friday and Saturday evenings
